This will minimize loose connections that could cause problems later. My anniversary is tomorrow and I have a meeting that's impossible to get out of so we planned to celebrate today. I'll take it back to Dealer if necessary but this seems like a pretty simple fix if it's just the meter setting. I highly recommend starting over with a non-adjustable timing light verify the timing both initial and total. Do I have a short somewhere with almost 9v on the sending unit wire? A pullup resistor works to 'pull' a floating signal to 12v then the pcm overpowers the 12v and pulls it to ground repeating and repeating which forms a pulse train signal. G'day, I had the same problem until I realised the selector switch in the back of the guage was set to 4cylinder instead of 8. See diagram in the wiring section.
I dont really want to have to tear into the whole gauge and take the whole gauge it self apart because i dont want to destroy it. It could possibly respond faster then having your tach set in 4 cylinder mode. I just called John Speartech you're dead on the money. This is the indicator for High Set shift point. How man wires are coming out of the back of the tach? As you can see, at idle it reads nearly perfect.
I've never had one fail, so just throwing it out there. Speartech should have included the pull-up resistor in the harness. This clears the memory from your previous run. Plug is directional, do not force fit! I have the tach set to 4cyl. The circuit board seperates from the gauge face without removing the needle.
No, we do not hand out car sponsorships. With power off, it is normal for the pointer to leave zero. Attach the base using screws provided or use a pop rivet tool. Hi, I have an autometer fuel guage 4315 that i just put in the car and it is hooked up but does not work. The signal when going to the actual coil wire is terrible.
Gauge model numbers would be helpful! It will read 2900 when your actual engine speed is 3000. The 8910 is not needed in this case, you will require a Chrysler dual ballast resister. The frequency remained the same. He told me I needed to amplify the signal to the tach to register a reading. I know the engine isnt turning that fast.
This is why tachs typically look for a 4 pulses per revolution. Once you do get the gauge working, bear in mind that the Autometer fuel gauges are very non-linear, unlike the stock one. Using resistors for a pull up signal around 1K and a switched 12volt wire I get nothing. You currently have 0 posts. I keep putting 2 gallons at a time in the tank when i go to town, maybe next weekend the car will get there on its own power and get a full tank. You need to add a resistor about 1k ohm between the tach output and 12V to Pull-Up the Output signal to a usable voltage for aftermarket tachs. The sending unit reads 248 ohm empty and 31 ohm full.
New wiring on the engine with all soldered connections. Everything works on it and is in great condition. Three loops as instructions say. Two-Stage Shift-Lite Set Mode For tachs with two shift-lite set points 1. Thanks, Steve I replaced all gauges with Autometer and used the factory harness by modding the connector. At least it's not moving. I thought about it overnight and this is what's going on: Each coil pack receives 4 pulses per 1 engine revolution.
The two options for tach output are frequency and crank. It will read 2900 when your actual engine speed is 2800. I hate being cheap but its just stupid to give away free money then they have the audacity to say its my fault. What could be causing this problem? I just asked him again. What happened to your old tach? Probably could have should have done this today while I had it on the hose but time just wasn't on my side. What I said was the opposite of that. It's a trick, but it works!! I installed a new power valve but it made no difference.
To double check, push red set button-- pointer will indicate your shift-point. I have a big block clone that i run in the open class. If you are experiencing this problem, perform the following: Using a voltmeter not a test light , measure across the Red wire and Black wire coming from the tachometer while the engine is running. So the timing you think you are at is probably not the case. So alas, this is a project for another day I have had two boats with Tach issues.