Connecting the ignition wire to another wire and running it to the 75x post will allow the stereo to work properly when the car is turned on and off. Once the glove box is removed, go back to the engine bay. Basically it goes like this: slide a sealing nut on the line, then follow it with a ferrule. Cut the grey wire with the blue stripe about two inches down from the harness, and strip the ends of both sides. The hole is located on the driver's side of the engine, under the steering wheel.
Your budget will determine whether you'll be using a mechanical or, possibly, an electronic boost gauge. Route the black wire from the gauge to the battery in the engine compartment. Here's the final pic of the install. In the engine bay we're using our proven restrictor T-fitting to splice into the factory vacuum lines and provide a clean signal to the boost gauge. Connect the wiring Remove the lower dash from the metal support beams under the steering column.
I used a thin feeler gauge. Once again I am very pleased with my order from American Muscle. . It pulls off -- be gentle to avoid breaking the cheap clips Ford likes to use everywhere. I found it easiest to then use my finger tips to gently wiggle the piece out. A boost gauge is easy to install and takes only an hour to complete. Included with this boost pressure gauge is a t-fitting and 6' of black silicone vacuum hose allowing you to easily tap any vacuum line that is connected to your intake manifold for an effortless installation.
You will be connecting the white wire to the tail light circuits. Direct the boost gauge sending unit through the firewall of the vehicle into the engine compartment using existing wire harness passages to complete this task. What could possibly go wrong? Place the gauge mounting bracket onto the back side of the gauge to hold it in position in the pod. Again, use cable ties to secure the hose at various locations to prevent it falling somewhere it shouldn't - like on your feet while driving! This pod will give you optimal viewing of your new gauge. Two electrical terminals can usually be found on the back of the gauge - one for a positive electrical feed and one for Earth.
It is easier to see if you are using a non-black hose. Check for the connections to power, ignition, illumination, and ground to wire a boost gauge for proper operation. The actual installation of the gauge in the cabin will depend on your own sense of aesthetics and ergonomics. We drilled a circle of holes through the plastic, broke the centre out and filed the hole until it was large enough to accept the boost gauge. A 40mm gauge was used in this case.
This Tinted Series Gauge is housed in a two tone gun metal gauge body with a brushed aluminum trim ring, and a low profile magnified tinted lens. AmericanMuscle also offers Free Freight Handling to locations with loading docks in the Continental 48 States. I have a paxton throw back supercharger installed. Routing the Hose There are a couple of things to remember when routing the hose from the manifold to the in-cabin gauge. Supposedly there's some sort of clip in there that you just loosen with a pick or punch, but we dunno. Here is the Defi white faced boost gauge.
In the engine bay, hang the vacuum line off something until the supercharger is installed. Attach the fitting to the connector on the back side of the gauge. Using the trim tool, or a large screw driver wrapped in fabric, carefully pry around the edges of the bezel until you can wiggle it free. Installation Time: Less than 1 Hour October 18, 2013 Ford Racing Boost Gauge This boost gauge, made by Autometer, is bar none the best gauge on the market. The intake airstream is tapped by threading the included brass barb into the plastic intercooler piping. They are located along the upper edge. Route the boost line through the hole in the firewall.
Use the conventional nut to hold them together. Our tubing can snake through gauge pods without kinking or crushing, while simultaneously holding tight on our barbed fittings without zip-ties or clamps. A simple wire tap will do the job. Silly pervert, licks are for kids. This should take care of the vacuum line for now.
The hose should not be kinked, it should be kept well away from intense heat sources and it should not foul the operation of any moving parts - particularly the throttle! But if you would like to avoid cutting more stock wires, then follow the directions below. Some hoses connected to solenoids or the throttle body may not read pressure all the time or at all and some may not read vacuum. Fit and finish is top notch and install was pretty straight forward. Connect to the existing boost system of the turbo charged engine package via existing vacuum hosing that can be found connecting to the intake manifold of the engine. The culmination of Autometer and Ford Racing results in a beautiful and excellent product.
The constant would be straight to the positive side battery. Connecting the lights Now, you are going to work with the white wire. Unfortunately, the ashtray area is a fair way out of the driver's normal viewing line, which means it's a little difficult to watch while on the move. With a razor blade, cut an X in the middle so you can run your boost hose through it and re-insert it into its hole. Behind the passenger shock tower you should see a black rubber grommet.